A Logical Look at Shoes

It seems that time and time again, the argument why a horse “needs” shoes is that they are sore without, and the shoes solve that. It is also argued that some horses have “thin n soles”, and some argue that it is genetic, and nothing will solve that except shoes.

Let’s take a look at these statements with logic. Shoes only cover the outer part of the hoof – the wall – and leave the sole uncovered. Bruising and abscessing happens on the inner areas of the hoof or the bulbs – all of which are still open to the environment with shoes on. Ditto for the “thin soles”. Why would putting a shoe on the outer part of the hoof stop soreness on the inner part? It certainly does not protect it. Rocks can still penetrate and cause ouchies.

If the damage can still happen, then why does the horse walk out better? Magical shoe properties?

Let’s look at why we would sustain damage and not feel it – paralysis and lack of blood flow. When you wake up in the morning after sleeping on your arm all night, it is dead, and cannot feel anything. Perhaps the shoe restricts blood flow, deadening the feeling in the hoofs. The hoof is a complex structure, designed to take the entire weight and concussion of a 100lb animal in full flight. Huge stresses are absorbed by this small area. Stresses are either absorbed by deflection (expansion) or they are transferred directly to other structures up the leg. When metal is firmly affixed to the hoof, the expansion of the hoof is hindered. We don't often think about the expansion that happens in organic materials under thousands of pounds of stress. We also don't think about what holding those structures immobile will do to the blood flow. If I am held immobile for long periods, I start to lose feeling. Imagine what hapens when the hoof is held immobile for weeks and months at a time.

Let’s also look at thin soles. Ever walk barefooted over rocks? For most of us, it hurts, if it is not downright impossible. We use loofahs to remove callous from our feet to make them look pretty and feel soft. Soft, pretty feet do not walk on rocks without pain. Take those same feet, and let them build callous for a few months, and presto – you can walk on rocks without pain. It has nothing to do with whether or not your parents could walk on rocks without pain – just matters whether or not you have callous.

Callous is a thickening of layers of the skin due to repeated stimulus. It is not that much thicker than smooth, soft skin, but it is hundreds of times tougher. When you remove the callous, it exposes more sensitive material underneath, and it takes time for that to regrow.

It is well known and well-accepted that pulling the shoes and letting the feet ”rest” HELPS the hoof. If taking the shoes off helps, then is it not logical that shoes HURT the hoof?

It really amazes me what “herd” mentality will allow people to accept as okay when it has no logic. THINK about what you are doing to your animals. They are not human, and do not like human things. The problem is forcing them to live to our standards, not theirs. The sad fact is that a lot of traditional horse keeping practices are not healthy for the horse. Sure, most of the time they seem okay, but the problems show up as lameness, colic, and pain. Shoes may get rid of the symptom, but not the underlying issue. The problem still exists - a hoof that is not performing to the best of its abilities.

Unfortunately, I do not have the time or the inclination to educate the masses. People are resistant to change. As always, I just encourage people to think as much as possible.

The "S" Word

If you want to rile up horsepeople fast, just start a discussion about slaughter. It is more likely to start a flame war on a horse bulletin board than most other topics. People who have opinions on the issue generally have STRONG opinions – and generally, these people are not swayed no matter how much information is put in front of them.

Let’s look at some of the general background on this issue. Horses are defined as livestock, same as cows, pigs, and chickens. They are not labeled as companion animals like cats and dogs. One of the main differences in these labels(generally speaking) is that livestock is a designated food product, and companions are, well – pets. Livestock is generally excluded from land plots smaller than a certain size, and can be generally restricted and/or prohibited from within city limits. Livestock feed, care and services generally file under the lower-tax bracket reserved for farmers. Pet care, feed, and services fall under the normal tax laws. (This means you pay more taxes on pets than on livestock.)

There used to be several equine slaughter plants in the US. These processed the meat for overseas consumption where horsemeat is a delicacy. (Laws making eating horsemeat illegal in the states prohibit domestic consumption.) However, horsemeat can still be processed for other uses, including the rendering of carcasses for glue and pet food. (Euthanised pets are also rendered and recycled into pet food. This practice is partialy to blame for the mad cow disease scare - and the reson some foods have a "ruminant free" label.) Human consumption brings a much higher price, allowing slaughter buyers to make a profit even though they now have to transport horses to Canada or Mexico. Slaughter buyers can pick up horses for between $10-$300 at auctions across the country and make money. People who don’t want to take the time and/or effort to market their horse to a using home can turn a few dollars fast by using an auction.

Why are so many horses available for such a small amount of money? The short answer is: Supply and demand. Certainly, there will always be a few statistical outliers – horses who are not useful (too old or lame) or unmanageable/dangerous/untrainable. However, the steady availability of dirt cheap horses indicates that there are simply more horses available than for which there are homes.

Most horse owners deal with limited space. This is either a lack of horsekeeping facilities or a limit on funds for boarding fees. There is also the issue of usefulness. If someone is into a specific form of competition, then there is frequently a specific range of ages that can compete. For racing, most horses do not make it past their 3yo year. They don’t win enough or don’t hold up to the pressures and break down. A constant crop of new horses is bred and tried before being passed on. It takes a knowledgeable trainer to get these discarded horses ready for usefulness in another discipline – but these trainers are far less numerous than the horses in need of training. This can also be the case with show horses – futurity bids are for 2 and 3 year olds… they are considered “seniors” after this age. People who want to win year after year at these shows have to continually cycle through young prospects. Do you think they just retire all of their older and failed show horses to the back forty? These horses can be expected to live another 20 years past their futurity years…. Very few get to remain with the ones who showed them at a young age.

So - what to do with those horses who are older/not winning? Anyone who has sold a horse can tell you how much a chore it is to find an appropriate home for one horse, nevermind a cadre of horses every year. Pile this up for years on end, and it could be a full-time job just trying to place horses - leaving no time for the showing which is the reason for the sales in the first place. Quick and dirty solution? Run them through the local sale. Sure, you don't get a premuim, but it is done and no longer "their problem".

…to be continued….

Silliness from the trail

Trail riding seems like a simple enough concept. However, the likelihood of finding someone who likes to trail ride the same way that you do is hit-or-miss. To some, a “trail ride” is anything that involves riding outside of a riding ring. To others, a “trail” is flat, groomed, and wide enough to drive a jeep down it. Those who profess themselves full-time “trail riders” generally prefer smaller trails with varied terrain and obstacles to keep it interesting.

One of the most common complaints seems to be that of non-gaited and gaited horses riding together. Honestly, this is more of a difference in riding speed preference than a gaited/nongaited issue. Riders of either type can ride at speeds that are entirely too fast or entirely too slow for others on similar equines. In order for any trail ride with a group to be a success, there must be an understanding of where/how the trail ride will take place. That way, everyone comes prepared knowing what sort of riding is in store. However, sometimes even this does not stop all problems.

Some riders are simply unprepared. This can range from not having the horse conditioned properly for the terrain and length of trail, to not having the proper training on the horse. The unprepared rider can either be accommodating – pushing through like a trooper: listening to advice and getting their horse through it with help – or they can be downright frustrating: whining, complaining and generally making everyone else miserable.

You can also run into people with very interesting ideas of how you are supposed to ride. I have heard riders complain about getting dust/dirt/mud/water on their boots/jeans/ tack. I have heard unceasing too fast/too slow complaints. People get upset when you pass or when you stay behind them. Some people do not think it is okay for anyone to move at a different speed than they are. Some pitch a fit if you get closer than 3 horse lengths to their horse (how would you carry on a conversation?) I have heard that gaited horses scare non-gaited horses. (Huh?) I have heard that the reason a horse kicked was that it was a mare (after they ran their horse into the back of said mare at a fairly good clip.) I even had to endure a complaint from a veteran rider who said they were stopped on a hill… (small grade – really should not have been a problem.)

Some people like to stop a lot for rest breaks, and some people get mad if you have to stop – whatever the reason. (Even a missing Chicago screw – who can predict that one? Heck – you don’t need a bridle to ride.)

Anyone heard any other silliness?

Trailer Loading - How NOT to do it

This past week, a friend of ours asked to borrow our dark grey two horse bumper pull trailer. Let’s call him John. My husband took the request, and told John yes before I had any input. John was going to pick up a horse he owned that had been at someone else’s house for the last year. The horse was supposed to be ridden about once a week. Now John has room to bring the horse home, so went to pick him up.

The horse is a 20yo QH gelding. Since he has a tattoo, I would guess he had been raced in younger years. John told me that the horse had had ankle surgery of some sort years ago, and he bought him as a light riding horse. A year ago, the horse was ridable and would come up to you in the pasture.

John gets there to pick up the horse, and the guy’s daughter meets him. She tells John that her dad had not touched the horse at all – it was in a back pasture running wild. John has some problems catching the horse – it runs away from him for about 15 minutes. Then he takes it up to the trailer to load. He outfitted the horse in his BRIDLE and tries to get the horse onto the trailer using a leather rein. The horse went about halfway into the straight load, then stops. John then PULLS on the horse, causing it to pull back and shoot backwards out of the trailer, breaking the rein in the process.

He tries luring it back with feed, to no avail. John then gets a rope and ties it around the horse’s neck, running it through one of the bars on the side of the trailer. Then a tug-of-war ensues, and the horse CHOKES himself down, collapsing. When the horse finally gets up, John tried to get behind him and PUSH him in, getting kicked in the ribs in the process. (Which he truly deserved by that point.) Hurting, with rope burn, John returns the horse to the pasture and goes home.

Can you recognize all the places where John went wrong?

1. First wrong was actually with my husband – he should have recognized that John is not a knowledgeable horse person, and at least one of us should have gone with him. Then the rest of the mistakes would not have happened.

2. John should have brought a halter and lead with him. I prefer cotton leads because they are less prone to causing rope burns. A pair of gloves and a sharp knife are also good to have in hand for an unknown loading situation. Gloves will protect your hands from all ropes, and a knife could cut the rope if there is a situation that warrants it.

3. Also, once John realized that the horse had been running wild, he should have worked with it for a few minutes, getting the horse to lead, back, and turn on command – making sure that the horse remembered how to listen and to focus on his handler.

4. Once the horse loaded halfway, John should have allowed the horse time to “chill”, and he also should have allowed the horse to back out a few times if he got nervous. Trailers are scary places for a horse, and even a seasoned loader can get nervous. Allowing the horse to reverse out – even ASKING the horse to reverse out, reinforces that the horse is not trapped. Pulling on the horse makes it feel trapped, and also makes a horse instinctively pull back. That is a tug of war you cannot win.

5. NEVER tie a rope around a horse’s neck. Choking a horse is not good. Imagine the panic you would go through if you could not breathe. You could also break the horse’s neck.

6. Feed sounds like a good idea, but doesn’t work. At best, it can refocus a horse that is fretting. When it comes down to it, a horse that does not want to poad will not load just because you are holding feed. It can also backfire – I once knew a horse that got used to getting feed in order to load. She would stand perfectly at the door, and refuse to move until the feed bucket went in. Then she would load perfectly. What then happens if no feed is available?

7. You cannot push a horse into a trailer. I can only assume that John had completely lost his mind by that point.

8. With an unknown loader, an open trailer is best. Light colors are best. Anything that makes the trailer look less like a dark, restrictive cave. For ramp or step-up, some horses don’t care, and some prefer one or the other. If a straight-load is the only option, one with a swinging/removable divider is less restrictive.

9. As with other areas of working with a horse, you should never let yourself get angry. Always leave yourself options – a few hours extra time, a different trailer, a trailering buddy, or a horse-savvy friend on speed-dial.

If trailer loading is scary, next time will not be any better. If you can load without force, next time should be easier.

Feeding Primer

Feeding horses is not difficult, but a lot of people do not understand what a horse needs. First of all, always feed to proper condition. Barring health issues, if a horse is thin, it needs more calories. If it is overweight, it needs less calories. You also need to realize that changes in amounts of exercise will require a change in feeding. A long weekend of riding will use a lot of calories, and a horse can appear visibly thinner after a long exertion. Plan to feed accordingly.

Most important in a horse’s ration is fiber. Fiber most usually comes from grasses or hays. Horses in light work and good pasture frequently do not need anything additional except salt. Fiber should make up at least 70-80% of the horse’s total feed. If there is not pasture available, fiber must come in the form of hay (also available bagged, chopped, or pelleted from feed stores), or there are complete feeds available that can provide the fiber needed. Another handy source of fiber is beet pulp. In times when hay is not plentiful, beet pulp can replace some (but not all) of the horse’s fiber needs.

When feeding horses, you should also remember that horses can get sick from eating moldy or insect-infested feed. Their hay should be clean and smell fresh. Grass hay should be leafy with few stems or seed heads. When you grab a handful, it should feel relatively soft – not hard.

If a horse cannot get the calories he needs from grass/hay, then a pelleted or “sweet” feed can be added. In this arena, not all feeds are created equal. Be sure to pick one that has some research behind it. The generic grain-n-molasses mix is not going to provide the same nutrituion as one that has been researched and balanced. There are many good ones out there. Some of the brands that can be found across the southeast with good feeds are Purina, Nutrena, and Southern States. There are others in other areas.

Horses should be fed as close to the ground as possible. They evolved as grazers, and a low eating position is more natural. The caveat to this is if your ground is sandy. Horses ingesting sand can get sand colic. A psyllium preparation can be fed to help move the sand out of the gut. In these areas, you can place clean rubber mats down under the feed pan. This will reduce sand ingestion.

Horses also evolved to eat small amounts over long periods of time, while moving several miles. To simulate this in a smaller pen, you can place small piles of hay in multiple areas. There is also an interesting concept in a book called “Paddock Paradise”. Basically, it illustrates how small areas can be set up to stimulate a horse to keep moving. As moving stimulates healthy feet and a healthy gut (also keeps them in shape) this is a good thing. Many small meals are much better and more easily digested than two larger meals.

I also want to mention alfalfa hay. Caution must be used when feeding large amounts of alfalfa, as it has an incorrect calcium/phosphorus ratio. It has also been shown to create enteroliths – stone-like accretions of minerals that can cause colic and death. If there is a choice in hay, an alfalfa mix or straight grass hay can be fed with less worries.

Helmets

Most long-time Equestrians grew up riding without helmets. Western disciplines certainly did not don protective helmets – the cowboy hat is the norm for the well-turned-out rider. The only place you would regularly see any protective gear was in jumping competitions – but even show jumping opted for the less-protective velvet cap.

Now there is a great “helmet debate” raging. Certain states have enacted helmet laws for those under 18 while in public places. Most boarding barns have helmet rules for children – and some have helmet rules for all riders. Most people are free to choose whether to helmet or not.

What is confirmed is that wearing a proper protective helmet can save you from serious head injury, should you fall from a horse or be bucked off and strike your head. There are hundreds of people who can attest to this.

However, helmet use is still not universal. Many people, including myself, do not wear a helmet while riding. Why is this?

For myself, it is an interesting story. I have always owned a helmet. I got into jumping in Elementary school, and have kept a helmet handy ever since. After I graduated from college, I got a new helmet to use while working young or unruly horses. I wore it in the round pen and on the first handful of rides I would take on any horse. For about a year, I wore it almost every ride I took. However, during that year, I seemed to fall off when I wore the helmet, and did not when I did not wear one. I was not riding young or rank equines – only my horses that I knew well and were not hot or silly. My husband put it together as helmet=falling for me. He asked me to stop wearing one. As I had not ever fallen on my head or even hit my head during these falls, I agreed.

That being said, I do not understand the mentality that would make someone ridicule a helmet-wearer. They are, after all, only protecting themselves.

I also think that parents should provide a helmet for their children, and encourage its use. I do not believe, however, that it should be a law. I am also a person who does not care if someone else decides to put their unhelmeted child on the back of an unrestrained horse. Bad parenting? I call it Darwin at work. We do have an overpopulation problem, so why not let the problem “fix” itself? Are we seriously that superior that we need to criticize others?

If you are concerned about striking your head/head injury, then putting a helmet on is the easiest thing you can do to protect your noggin.

Clipping too much

One thing that I always like to think about before doing something to a horse that it does not have done to it in the wild is: is this going to help the horse, or is this something that has no purpose/is superficial/possible harmful?

Take clipping for example. I have seen people clip ears inside and out, and shave the eye guard hairs and the chin hairs right off. Then they trim all the hair off the fetlocks. This is to make the horse “look nice” and is pretty much standard at horse shows.

Take a step back and look at what that does. Let’s start with the ears. The hairs on the inside of the horse’s ears act as bug guards – keeping nasty little critters from climbing down there and biting the horse/taking up residence in a very sensitive area. (I have had the displeasure of getting a bug in my ear canal once – bug on the eardrum HURTS, plus those feet are LOUD in there. Feeling creepy just remembering it. Ugg.) There really is no reason to clip those inner hairs. If you insist on cutting them, then be kind and outfit your horse at all times with a fly mask with ear covers. The kind thing to do is to clamp the ear closed, and then trim only the hairs that lie outside.

Now let’s look at the face guard hairs. Horses use their whiskers as an early warning system for collisions in areas that they cannot see. With widely spaced eyes and a long nose, the area of their face between their eyes as well as directly under their nose are blind spots. They cannot see anything there. The hairs bump an object first, signaling the horse to be careful, and “seeing” the object for them. Shave the eye lashes and the muzzle, and they lose that early warning system. As prone to injury as horses are, why would you want to let them stumble around with a blind spot and no warning system?

Next, the hairy fetlocks. The extra hair in this area helps deflect possible scratches/injury from woody brush. Without the extra hair, sticks and thorns penetrate easily. Not the end of the world, but it is the difference between you doing heavy work with gloves or bare-handed. It is doable, but not nearly as easy/painless.

Finally, if winter clipping the horse’s natural coat, you have to be extra careful and allow extra time to check blankets every day. It is best to have two of every weight for the horse – so you can launder/mend the one while the horse is wearing the other. Body clipping removes the horse’s natural temperature regulation. Although horses are comfortable at much lower temperatures than humans(50-60F is ideal temp to a horse)without the winter coat to provide that insulating air, they find it very difficult to stay warm. If possible, it is best to leave the horse with their natural coat. Horses with proper winter woolies can withstand temps well down into the teens, given a wind break and dry spot to stand. The only time they really need human intervention is with the combination of extreme cold and wet. Soaking the hair can leave a horse shivering – and a dry-off and waterproof blanket or shed for the duration will help.